The Lost Valley, Glencoe
LOST VALLEY (COIRE GABHAIL), GLENCOE
4km 2 hours 335m ascent
I’d seen photos of snow on the headwall of the Lost Valley in June! This was 27 February and the sun was out, albeit a bit hazy, the sky was blue and the temperature was 12 degrees.
We started from the car park in Glencoe(sometimes there’s a bagpiper playing but not today … just a steady turnover of tourists pausing to take photos then hop back in their vehicles). Nice view of the Three sisters before we started. There were too many people milling around though, so we didn’t take a photo as we were keen to leave them behind.
We were a party of three: me, John and Iona who was home from London for a few days. Iona was keen to use her ‘film camera’, and although she loves beautiful landscapes, she’s less keen on long sweaty walks in the hills. So this would be perfect – just a short sweaty walk in the hills then. I would just be snapping away with my very ordinary Samsung phone.
We followed the path through the glen to a metal staircase and climbed down to cross the bridge over the River Coe. A rocky scramble upwards at the other side was made easier with a helpful handrail. Then into some birch woods we went – bare trees at this time of year though and through the deer fence.
The path through the gorge was perfectly lovely, running between the first two of the sisters: Beinn Fhada on the left and Gearr Aonach on the right. We were a bit worried about missing the crossing point of the river but it was easy enough to spot. There was one place where we could have crossed but no path on the other side so we knew we weren’t there yet. We clambered over some boulders and there was a perfectly usable stepping stone path across to the other side.
The rocky rake was ok too. It had been dry and mild for days otherwise it could have been a different story.
There are some fabulous views here back to Glencoe with Am Bodach in the distance.
All of a sudden, after clambering over a rocky lip, there was the Lost Valley below us in all her scenic splendour. It was an emotional moment – a hidden jewel in Glencoe’s crown. And the massive walls of Gearr Anoach and Beinn Fhada provided protective flanks either side.
All the while on the walk I was thinking about the MacDonalds and what would have been going through their heads as they escaped from their clan’s massacre. It was around this time in 1692 (13th of February) that it happened and many of them died in the harsh Winter conditions. What a difference to today where we sat on a massive boulder and sunbathed after lunch.
We then took a walk to the head of the valley with impressive views of Stob Coire Sgreamhach.
We walked a little way up the track at the head of the valley and were treated to sweeping views of the whole Lost Valley towards the huge house-size boulders with Am Bodach beyond.
Instead of retracing our steps back again, we decided to head beyond the big-house boulder at the entrance to the Lost Valley and follow whither it led.
It became a dry riverbed of rocks and discarded trees and became quite difficult to negotiate. It was fun though and I felt like Indiana Jones. Eventually, we climbed up a bit and met the proper path, just before negotiating the rake again.
Although it’s a short sharp walk, I loved its complex nature and there was so much dramatic scenery to admire.
Afterwards we went for a cuppa in the newly refurbished Kings House, then we took a drive along Glen Etive to hunt for deer … blissful day.
